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YARN
FORMATION AND PRODUCTION :
| 1. |
MELT SPINNING : |
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Optimization of DMS salt content in
cationic dyeable polyester to get
yarn with good dyeability and mechanical
properties. |
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| 2. |
YARN / FILAMENT TWISTING : |
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A prototype yarn covering machine
was designed and developed. The silk
covered yarns developed on this machine
had satisfactory physical properties
and silky appearance. |
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Optimization of twist level in different
yarns like polyester, nylon and viscose
of various deniers, for manufacturing
of cost-effective, uniform quality
fabrics. |
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Development
of small diameter TFO Spindle for
fine denier high-twist application,
this machine is also suitable for
micro denier Yarns. |
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| 3. |
DRAW TEXTURING :
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Standardization
of processing condition for crimping/texturing
of nylon and polyester filament yarns. |
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Effect of various intermingling parameters
like type of jet, air-hole cross-sectional
area, air impacting geometry on physical
properties of draw-textural yarns
have been studied. |
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Optimization
of texturing process parameters viz.
Draw-ratio, D/y ratio, primary heater
temperature and heating contact time
for cationic dyeable polyester yarns. |
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Formulation of empirical equation
called Quality Index (QI) for evaluation
of POY quality. |
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Usefulness
of mixed friction discs on draw texturing
machine. |
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Establishment
of correlations between test results
of various materials of evaluation
of textured yarn quality. |
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Optimization of setting temperature
and overfeed level of micro denier
filament yarn and profiled yarns.
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| 4. |
AIR-JET TEXTURING : |
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Development of Polypropylene blended
air-textured fancy yarns. |
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Development of micro denier air-textured
polyester yarns. |
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Development
of novel air-textured yarns using polyester,
nylon,
viscose yarn blends. |
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Development
of combination yarns from differentially
shrinkable yarns by Air texturing methods. |
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Development
of new look synthetic yarn on texturing
machine. |
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Development
and production of continuous synthetic
sewing thread by air texturing process. |
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Parameter
optimization of air-mingled elastane
combination yarns.
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| WEAVING
PREPARATORY AND WEAVING : |
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| 1. |
Development of self-lubricating nylon
loom parts (towards oil-less looms).
This project was supported by local
association, The Surat Art Silk Cloth
manufacturers Association (SASCMA)
and, has been very popular since the
work was started in the year 1991
till date. Up to 31st August, 2000,
1051 power loom units have been served
with the self-lubricating nylon parts
and around Rs. 5.23 lakhs earned as
revenue from this work.
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| 2. |
Cost reduction in Filament sizing
through application of modified size
recipe is achieved. Different techniques
have been developed. The study has
helped the machine manufacturers to
modify and design sizing machines
accordingly. |
| 3. |
Performance evaluation of the utility
of polypropylene fibre fabrics was
carried out to evaluate the functional
properties and performance characteristics
of polypropylene textiles vis-a-vis
standard textiles available in the
market. By this study it was possible
to assess the feasibility of polypropylene
textiles in apparel use.
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Optimization of the process-parameters
was carried out for the steam setting
methods used for setting of twisted
yarn to achieve minimum consumption
of steam and maximum conservation
of energy. The above study provided
the suitable parameters to be kept
during setting of the polyester yarns.
The operational cost comparison between
ager and autoclave method of setting
was also carried out. |
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The
effect of humidification on the weavability
of synthetic filament yarns was studied.
The problems faced during weaving
along with the fabric defects were
studied and accordingly suggestions
were made for the control of proper
humidity level in the loom-shed. |
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Different types of polyester-silk union
fabrics and polyester-acetate fabrics
with different constructional characteristics
have been developed. This will lead
to the development of new product types
and range. |
| 7. |
Studies
on noise pollution and its control in
loom shed. |
| 8. |
Comfort
properties of woven fabrics with respect
to weave construction and yarn properties. |
| 9. |
Development
of light weight protective fabrics
woven from microdenier yarn.
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| CHEMICAL
PROCESSING :
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Guar gum has been modified on the shop floor,
viscosity has been optimised. From
the above guideline local industry
has started manufacturing their
own guar-gum at low cost with better
qualities. |
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Discharge printing of acid & disperse
dyes on nylon and polyester has
been studied using several discharging
agents. Mixture of zinc sulphoxylate
formaldehyde has proved more effective
and cheaper in discharge printing
of nylon and polyester. |
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Detailed study of parameters of processing
(all stages like preparation, dyeing
& printing) of cationic dyeable
polyester CD-PE+ has been carried
out. Guidelines set up have proved
useful for the local processing
industry. |
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Dye bath reuse technique in dyeing of polyester
fabrics is studied. A simple dyeing
system is devised which permits
reuse of dye bath for several times.
It is concluded that while repeating
same shade reuse is possible for
1+6 cycles. It is possible to achieve
10% saving in dye, 85% in chemicals,
77% in water & 26% in electrical
cost. It will also reduce pollution. |
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Introduction of cheaper substitutes and short
sequence operations in process houses. |
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Single stage simultaneous optical brightening,
scouring and weight reduction process
for polyester has been developed. |
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Tartaric acid is used in printing of nylon
and polyester which is being imported.
Citric acid has been studied and
promoted as a substitute to tartaric
acid in printing of polyester and
nylon. Further non-conventional
organic acids such as succinic acid,
adipic acid and glutaric acid were
employed for dyeing and printing
of polyester. Glutaric acid is found
to be effective substitute. |
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Effect of key machine-variables
viz. capacity, dye-liquor ratio, working
pressure, fabric speed, etc., of jet-dyeing
machine has been studied and parameters
were optimized. The study helped to
design such machines indigenously. |
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Development
of durable FR finishing technique
for viscose, cotton and polyester. |
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Application
of cationic dyes to cationic dyeable
nylon and performance evaluation of
dyed fabric with special reference
to fastness properties. |
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| INTEGRATED
PROJECT FROM CHIPS TO FINISHED FABRICS : |
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chips were extruded and parameters were
optimised. Positive results were obtained
when polyester spin finish was used instead
of nylon spin finish. Yarn samples of
different denier were produced and weaving
trials were conducted from those Nylon-11
yarn using silk weft and only as weft with
purer silk warp yarn. Fabric samples of plain
and satin varieties were developed. The woven
fabric samples were given wet processing treatment,
viz., scouring, heat-setting, dyeing,
printing, and finishing and satisfactorily
developed saree varieties and product
mix for dress materials. It was observed
that feel and handle of both plain and satin
variety of fabric were satisfactory, however,
as far as satin fabric is concerned, the lustre
and depth of the shade was somewhat poor compared
to pure silk fabric. MANTRA received project
grant of Rs. 9.83 lakhs from GSFC.
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| PHYSICAL
AND CHEMICAL TESTING/PROCESS CONTROL : |
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Analysis of coal and thermic fluids - measurement of calorific values and flash
points.
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Standardization of the processing conditions of texturing, twisting, etc.
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Determination of intrinsic
viscosities of nylon, polyester and acrylic filament and effect of various solvents on them were studied.
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| POLLUTION
CONTROL/ECO-TESTING : |
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Introduction
of eco-friendly chemicals and auxiliaries
to protect environment and decrease pollution.
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Methodology to estimate
the presence of banned chemicals like
carcinogenic amines, penta chloro phenol,
heavy metals, formaldehyde at trace level
has been developed. |
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Characterization
of amine based and other acid and disperse
dye intermediates by creating an impurity
profile using GC/MS, AAS and HPTLC system. |
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Application
of formaldehyde free finishes to man-made
fibre fabrics such as Tencel, viscose,
polyester and their blends and peformance
evaluation of finished fabrics. |
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| COMPUTER
COLOUR MATCHING : |
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Methods for recipe formulation and quality
control of coloured products with the
help of the computer colour matching system
have been popularised. This has resulted
in considerable cost reduction and inventory
control for the wet processing industry.
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A new formula for the assessment of whiteness
of OBA-treated samples using CIELAB (1976)
coordinates was developed. |
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The Kubelka-Munk (K-M) equation was modified
for the calculation of the total radiance
factor of fluorescent dyes. |
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Mantra has conducted several ISTE Summer
Schools on 'Computer Colour Matching of
Industrial Products' in collaboration
with Sardar Vallabhbhai Regional College
of Engineering & Technology, Surat,
and has created an awareness about CCM
at the national level. |
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Quality Control methods for textiles have
been established by defining colour tolerance
limits in terms of various colour attributes.
Instrumental results were correlated with
visual assessment data and this has helped
the colorist in defining acceptability
standards for particular hues. |
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Quantification
of gloss by conventional and unconventional
methods was studied. |
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MANTRA
has developed a software on computer colour
matching for textiles in collaboration
with Kothari Infotech Ltd. (KITL). The
software is called "Kothari Colorist"
and is being marketed by KITL. |
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| COMPUTER AIDED
TEXTILE DESIGN (CAD) :
Computer Aided Textile Design Centre (CAD)
of MANTRA has helped industry to achieve international
standards in designing. The Centre created
awareness about CAD in industry. CADC
consists of various latest equipments including
card punching machine.
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